North Side, Grand Cayman
For visitors who have the time and exploratory spirit, the most complete excursion on Grand Cayman is a day-trip to North Side, where all seven Cayman endemic birds, plus “White-winged Barn Owl,” can be found. This comparatively remote sector includes the northern end of the Mastic Trail, Canaan Land Road, and Willie Ebanks`s Farm (a.k.a. Willie`s Pig Farm), which often hosts a large flock of West Indian Whistling-Duck.
Orientation
Directions
The starting point for a tour of “North Side” is in the village of Old Man Bay, about 35 minutes’ drive (30 km) east of the George Town pier. This is the junction of Frank Sound Road, North Side Road, and Old Robin Road.
At this junction, check your odometer and continue west on North Side Road to the sites discussed below.
Nearby Sites. The junction at Old Man Bay is 3.4 km north of the turn-off to Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park and 4.4 km north of the turn-off to the main entrance to the Mastic Trail.
Attractions
Rum Point. From Old Man Bay, it is an 11 km drive to Rum Point Beach, an extensive strip of sand with several nearshore reefs for snorkeling—and the closest drivable access point to one of the world’s few bioluminescent bays. An excursion to North Side can begin with several hours of exploration, continue into an afternoon at the beach, and end with an outing on the glowing water.
(Note, however, that the bioluminescence is visible mainly in the darker half of the lunar cycle, ideally within a few days of the new moon. Check the lunar calendar before making your plans.)
Rum Point Beach.
To visit the bioluminescent bay from Rum Point, contact Cayman Kayaks, which offers tours by boat or kayak. (Reservations recommended.) Many visitors prefer the boat-based option because it allows for snorkeling, which is widely agreed to be the best way to experience the phenomenon. Before swimming in the bioluminescent water, it is important to take precautions against skin irritation.
Crystal Caves. For those who enjoy subterranean tourism, the sinkholes and caverns at Old Man Bay may be worth a visit. The office of the tour operator, Cayman Crystal Caves, is located 200 m west of the main junction. Reservations are required.
Splashes in the Bioluminescent Bay. © Adventura Cayman
Birdfinding
North Side has several productive areas to explore for birds. All six Caymanian endemics can be found nearly anywhere that affords access to natural habitat.
Mastic Trail. 1.5 km west of the junction at Old Man Bay, turn south onto Further Road and go about 700 m. Immediately after passing a small group of houses, the northern trailhead will be on your left.
Willie Ebanks`s Farm. 4 km west of the junction at Old Man Bay, with Chisolm`s Grocery on your right, turn left onto Hutland Road. After about 2 km, just short of the end of the pavement, the Ebanks farm will be on your left. The farm is world-renowned for the flock of West Indian Whistling-Ducks that visits its pond—these are wild birds that have been accustomed to feeding over multiple generations.
Canaan Land Road. From Hutland Road, about 200 m before the Ebanks farm, a dirt road takes off to the south. There is a single property accessed by a side road to the west, but otherwise this road leads to nowhere, dwindling down to a rough track after about 2 km.
Old Man Bay. The vicinity of Old Man Bay is one of the better areas on the island for finding “White-winged Barn Owl” after dark. It is likely that some of the caves in the area serve as roosts and nest sites, resulting in a locally dense population—though probably just a few pairs.
Services
Accommodations
North Side has a handful of person-to-person rentals of the AirBnB type, but no licensed hotels. Most visitors stay in George Town or West Bay.
There are any number of expensive hotels along Seven Mile Beach, with the Ritz-Carlton and the Westin being the largest and most conspicuous—both are adjacent to Safehaven. Budget options are scarce.
Mid-Range. One of the best values along Seven Mile Beach is the Sunshine Suites Resort—also adjacent to Safehaven—which has fairly low rates and basic kitchens to help keep expenses down. The beach is three blocks away.
Another mid-range option adjacent to Safehaven on the eastern side of the peninsula is the Holiday Inn Resort, which offers probably the best value among Grand Cayman’s large, name-brand hotels. The Holiday Inn is family-oriented, with economical suites and recreational options that include excursions to Stingray City and the bioluminescent lagoon at Rum Point departing from its dock. Its rates are somewhat less competitive during school vacation periods.
Similarly priced, at the farthest tip of the peninsula in West Bay, near Barkers National Park and the Cayman Turtle Center, is the Cobalt Coast Resort, which caters especially to divers. It is on the waterfront and has a small sandy beach, but a jagged, dry reef separates the sand from the ocean. There is, however, a boardwalk and dock that give divers direct access to the ocean without having to leave the property.
Budget. In George Town proper, south of Seven Mile Beach, is the renowned budget hotel Eldemire’s Tropical Island Inn (a.k.a. Eldemire’s Guest House). It is a ten-minute drive from the airport and a five-minute walk from Smith Cove Beach.
Food
Seven Mile Beach has abundant restaurant options.