Rocklands Bird Sanctuary, Jamaica
Nestled in forested hills overlooking Montego Bay, Rocklands Bird Sanctuary is a cottage property with a small bird-feeding station that has operated continuously since 1962. Famous for enabling guests to hand-feed Red-billed Streamertails and Jamaican Mangoes, the feeding station also offers close views of Caribbean (“Red-necked”) Dove, Orangequit, and Jamaican Oriole, among others. The property often has stakeouts for roosting “Caribbean Potoo” and sometimes Jamaican Owl. Visits can be arranged from resorts and cruise ship port-calls.
Orientation
Directions
Rocklands is a 20-minute drive (10 km) from downtown Montego Bay, or 30 minutes (15 km) from Sangster International Airport—traffic permitting.
From Montego Bay, head south on Bogue Road, which becomes Route A1, the highway to Negril. After passing the water treatment plant ponds, Bogue Road turns west, following the shoreline. About 2 km past this point, turn south (left) onto Long Hill Road toward Savanna la Mar and Black River.
3.5 km later, at the bottom of a short downhill, watch for a sign indicating the left turn toward Rocklands Bird Sanctuary. (If you reach the very small Anchovy town center, turn around and go back 1.5 km.) This unpaved side road proceeds uphill for approximately 1 km, becoming steep and rough. Shortly after cresting the ridge, the entrance to Rocklands is on the right.
Birdfinding
Rocklands is Jamaica’s best-known birdwatching site, attracting tourists and Jamaican visitors who have only a passing interest in birds. All the tour operators, hoteliers, and taxi drivers in Montego Bay know it as the place for birdwatchers.
It usually delivers intimate encounters with hummingbirds and close views of feeder-tame Caribbean (“Red-necked”), White-winged, and Common Ground-Doves, Jamaican Woodpecker, Jamaican Oriole, Shiny Cowbird, Greater Antillean Grackle, “Greater Antillean Bananaquit,” Yellow-faced and Black-faced Grassquits, and Orangequit. From October to April, a few migrant warblers (especially Black-throated Blue and American Redstart) often attend.
The feeding station at Rocklands is open daily from 9:00 or 10:00 to 5:00. The admission fee (“suggested donation”) was US$20/person at last report.
Male Red-billed Streamertail, hand-fed at Rocklands. © Dick Daniels
Jamaican Mango, hand-fed at Rocklands. © TripAdvisor
An early-morning walk through the area is likely to produce most of the following: Ruddy Quail-Dove, Chestnut-bellied Cuckoo, “Caribbean Potoo” (often roosts beside the road just uphill from the entrance to Rocklands), Jamaican Tody, Jamaican Parakeet, Sad, Rufous-tailed and Stolid Flycatchers, Jamaican and Black-whiskered Vireos, White-chinned Thrush, Jamaican Euphonia, Arrowhead Warbler, Jamaican Spindalis, Greater Antillean Bullfinch, and Yellow-shouldered Grassquit.
Less frequent, but possible, species include Jamaican Lizard-Cuckoo, Jamaican Owl (when there is a known roost), Small Jamaican Elaenia, Jamaican Pewee, Jamaican Becard, and Jamaican Crow.
Male Orangequit at Rocklands. © Ignacio Yúfera
Guided Tours. By appointment, the caretaker, Fritz Beckford, offers bird walks around the grounds and adjacent woodland. For best results, such walks should be scheduled for the early morning, which necessitates advance coordination. Circumstances permitting, it may be possible to arrange a brief walk during the feeding station hours.
Fritz charges a per-person fee for his guiding services—in recent years, his fee has been U.S.$20/person in addition to the admission fee. To make arrangements, contact Rocklands at +1-876-952-2009; rocklandsbirdsanctuary@gmail.com.
Self-Guided Tours. In case Fritz is unavailable or you prefer to explore independently, it is possible to remain outside the sanctuary, walk along the road and trails, and find most of the same species. From the road, when facing the entrance to the Rocklands property, to the left is a track into the woods that can be productive.
Caribbean (“Red-necked”) Dove at Rocklands. © Dave Irving
Services
Accommodations
The Rocklands cottage (on-site) has accommodations for up to eight guests, and can be rented through Airbnb.com.
Montego Bay’s hotel district is a 20- to 30-minute drive from Rocklands. Some hotels there that have been regarded as offering reasonable value and comfort include: Toby’s Resort; Relax Resort; Verney House Resort; The Belevedere; and the Seabreeze Inn.
Food
The most convenient restaurants are in Reading: the Texas Jerk and Seafood, at the junction of Bogue and Long Hill Roads, and the MVP Steakhouse, on Bogue Road 500 m east of Long Hill.
Notes
As well-known as Rocklands has become, it bears mentioning that many foreign birdwatchers have reported disappointment with their experiences there and regard the site as overrated. As anywhere, during the heat of the day bird activity often grinds to a halt. When a tour group is present, the feeding station can become crowded and noisy, discouraging the shier species.
On some occasions, adherence to the advertised opening and closing times has been erratic. This is understandable for a site that is operated single-handedly 7 days a week. To avoid disappointment, it is advisable to call or write in advance and confirm that your visit will be expected.