Black River Upper Morass, Jamaica
The Black River is known for “safari-style” jungle swamp cruises that bring tourists face-to-face with crocodiles. These tours patrol the river’s mangrove-lined estuary, at the mouth of the Lower Morass. Following the Black River upstream into the hills, it passes through another broad marshy basin: the Upper Morass, which is the only accessible site in Jamaica for Spotted Rail, and a good place to find many other wetland birds, including Yellow-breasted Crake.
Orientation
Directions
Black River Upper Morass is accessible from Route A2 about two hours’ drive (70 km) south of Montego Bay, two hours (130 km) west of Kingston, and 50 minutes (40 km) west of Mandeville.
From Kingston. Take Route T1 for 55 km to May Pen, where the T1 becomes Route A2. Continue on the A2 for 75 km to Lacovia.
From Montego Bay. Head south on Bogue Road, which becomes Route A1, the highway to Negril. After passing the water treatment plant ponds, Bogue Road turns west, following the shoreline. About 2 km past this point, turn south onto Long Hill Road toward Savanna la Mar and Black River.
As it enters the interior of the island, this road forks twice, at about 10 km and 14 km from the A1. Keep right at the first fork, then left at the second (toward Shettle Wood). Immediately after passing through Shettle Wood, bear right at the next fork.
After 2 km of forest, you will enter the outskirts of Bethel Town, then encounter a series of potentially confusing junctions as the road winds into and out of the town. Stay on the main road—if in doubt, stop and ask the way to New Market. 36 km past Shettle Wood, this road intersects the much larger Route A2 at Middle Quarters.
Turn left (east) on the A2 and proceed 12 km to Lacovia.
Aerial view of the Upper Morass, with dykes along the Black River to contain floods. © Sven Björk
Attractions
Black River Boat Trips. “Safari” jungle boat tours into the Lower Morass depart from the docks in the town of Black River. These have limited potential for birdwatching, but may be of interest for close views of American Crocodile and as a scenic excursion. They typically cost U.S.$20 per person, last about an hour, and pass primarily through the mangrove-lined estuary of the Broad River.
From the same docks in Black River, it is possible to hire a boat to visit one of the world’s truly unique restaurants, Floyd’s Pelican Bar. This building is implanted into a shoal about a mile offshore of Parrottee Point.
Floyd’s Pelican Bar.
Birdfinding
There are two areas of special interest in the Upper Morass, best accessed from different points on the A2. The most visited spot is Elim Pools, known for West Indian Whistling-Duck, Spotted Rail, and Yellow-breasted Crake—although the whistling-duck is irregular. The other is Bartons Fish Farm, which attracts large numbers of waders.
Elim Pools. Start in East Lacovia at the Texaco gas station, where a side road leads north toward Maggotty. From here, the fastest way to Elim Pools is to drive east on the highway 2.5 km to a dirt road on the left (north). This junction is on a long curve in the A2 directly across from White Garage and Wrecking Service (also La Brae Boutique and Sewing Centre). Turn onto this road, which is on top of a dyke, and proceed 3.3 km.
West Indian Whistling-Ducks at Elim Pools. © Leen van Ginkel
Immediately after crossing a bridge over the Black River’s main channel, a track departs to the right, passing beside a series of marshes and ponds: Elim Pools.
A sizeable flock of West Indian Whistling-Ducks sometimes appears in the marsh on the west side of this junction in the late afternoon. Spotted Rail and Yellow-breasted Crake can often be found in these marshes. They are most likely to be seen soon after dawn or near dusk—when “White-winged Barn Owl” is also possible. Spotted Rail, in particular, often forages in the open here. Least Bittern and Purple Gallinule are fairly common.
This side-track continues to the northeast, passing beside potentially productive wetlands for over 3 km.
“White-winged Barn Owl” can sometimes be seen at dawn or dusk at the Upper Morass. © Alan Van Norman
Bartons Fish Farm. Starting at the Texaco station in East Lacovia, take the side road leads north toward Maggotty. After 6.6 km, entering a small village, at the junction take the right fork (essentially straight ahead) onto the road to Bartons.
After 100 m, this road crosses a creek. Immediately after the bridge, turn right onto a broad dirt road on top of the dyke. This is the other end of the dyke-top road discussed above.
Starting at around 700 m, on the left, this road passes several ponds at the edge of a large-scale aquaculture operation, which often attracts large numbers of herons and egrets.
Continuing along this road 6.6 km from the bridge brings you to Elim Pools from the other direction.
Jamaican Parakeet is fairly common around the Upper Morass. © Knut Hansen
Services
Accommodations
The nearest hotels are 7 km east of Lacovia in Santa Cruz (Donbar Guest House) and 20 km west in Black River.
The offbeat tourist area, Treasure Beach, is 27 km (40 minutes) south of Lacovia and has a wide range of accommodations.
On the coast between Black River and Treasure Beach, several additional hotels and guesthouses are scattered along the shoreline.
Food
Lacovia has small shops that sell snacks and drinks. There are restaurants in Santa Cruz.